Moncler has its roots in outfitting mountaineers—skiers, climbers, and others who brave the cold to explore the most inaccessible places and immerse themselves in extreme conditions. That heritage formed the basis for the Italian label's latest collaboration—as part of its long-running Genius project—with Salehe Bembury, one of the most sought-after creatives in the sneaker world. 

The capsule collection, which launched today, reflects Bembury's own enthusiasm for the outdoors—follow him on IG, and you're likely to catch a Story post or two of the designer trudging through the woods. Bembury, who grew up in New York City’s Tribeca and now lives in Los Angeles, has a particular talent for bringing his passions into his designs—evident in his work at Yeezy and Versace, as well as his much-hyped collaborations with New Balance, Vans, Anta, Clarks, and Crocs.

The new project is inspired by an archival Moncler mountaineering line from the late 1950s. Bembury’s updated the archival designs with enveloping and softly protective silhouettes: think quilted jackets and padded shirts paired with performance leggings or techy trousers. The pieces are designed for spending time in the woods with big functional pockets, but the colorways, which range from shades of green evoking mosses and conifers, the orange of autumn leaves, and stone greys, make them suited to city life too. 

We talked to Bembury about designing the collection, the great outdoors, and his goal of “humanizing luxury.”

Salehe Bembury: Everyone can have a personal relationship with the outdoors. It’s always been a paradoxically exclusive world that doesn’t welcome many, whether because they lack the resources to explore it or because of the challenges of the environment. You know, I grew up in New York and I felt like I lived in a metropolis that didn’t have enough outlets in nature. But then I decided to move to the West Coast, to California, and then being near green and lush places became a reality. I was able to start my days with a hike and go camping much more easily. It was there that I realized that I was not adequately equipped, both from an apparel point of view and mentally, in terms of knowing the responsibilities and safety rules necessary when being in nature. These should not be seen as limitations; instead they are important to have a better experience in contact with your surroundings.

Absolutely!

Actually, it's more about the relationship that place has with me, because I grew up there. There’s a phrase that goes “put the city on your back”. I literally did that. As far as I know no artist or musician has ever represented Tribeca in this way, so I can say that maybe—I repeat maybe—I was the first. Joking aside, I simply came from there and I am very proud of it because it allowed me to become the man and the creative person that I am. And, somehow, I can also take you out into the forest too.

When I had my design meetings with Moncler, they explained to me that one of the reasons they were interested in my work was because I could humanize the brand. I was happy because often in my job you risk being isolated in your own bubble which alters your perception of the world outside. So every time I manage to arouse emotions in someone outside that bubble, I am satisfied. It means that the creative process has been successful, as the observer sees your work with a fresh eye. In recent years the phrase ‘quiet luxury’ has also been in vogue, which can feel like an oxymoron as well because often the idea of luxury is opulent, flashy, and with a strong brand identity, whereas quiet luxury means an outfit may be very expensive, but it doesn’t appear to be. Humanization speaks to that and making things visually accessible— simple but sophisticated silhouettes with a calm narrative. I come from New York and the world of sneakers and I grew up with a concept of luxury being represented by something inaccessible, not only in terms of price, but also in terms of aesthetics. Breaking down its traditional meaning and looking at it under a new lens allows you to simplify it.