1.准备音响接线材料，音频线、钳子、音响。用钳子将音频线剪一个适合长度，长度根据音响距离而定，把音频线两头塑料减掉露出音频连接线。2.拧开音响后面音频线接口，把音频接线缠到音频接口，黄色接红色，银色接黑色。3.如果接音频视频都是连接电视时才用到，需要准备音视频接线。

音响上几根线连接方式如图所示：

图中下面那根线，是两芯屏蔽线，外层铜线是屏蔽层；白色为左声道，红色为右回声道，可按下图接线。

说明：L-IN为左声道输入，R-IN为右声道输入；L-OUT为左声道输出，R-OUT为右声道输出；由连接至音响电路板的三根线，有两根是接2中的电位器L-OUT和R-OUT。

具体接线最好打开音响在电路板中找到相应两个声道的前置放大输入端，否则只能试答验接线了（不会损坏音响），另一根线是接地还是其它用途，可用电表测量与电路板的地是否接通确定。

扩展资料：

音频信号线，高纯度镀银无氧铜包裹高纯度无氧铜+镀银高纯度无氧铜编织屏蔽层+锡箔+高纯度无氧铜编织屏蔽层组成，构成双重屏蔽结构。

而且银的特性使得电磁干扰等辐射对信号影响几乎为零，100%的屏蔽效果令汽车上无处不在的辐射干扰降到最小。音频信号线的声音表现非常平衡，低频量感恰到好处，高频表现冰凉空灵，空间感开阔。

参考资料来源：百度百科 --音箱线

参考资料来源：百度百科-音频信号线

一、作用不同

1、音响线：音响器材中专门用于功放与音箱间连接的线材。

2、电线：是传输电流的电线。交流额定电压450/750V及以下的动力、照明、电器装置、仪器仪表及电讯设备的连接和内部安装线。

二、特点不同

1、音响线：流通的电流信号远大于视频线与音频线，正因为信号幅度很大，这类线没有屏蔽层，对于这种线材，关键是要降低其电阻。

2、电线：由于电压较高需要统一标准获得安全认证方可以正式生产。

三、要求不同

1、音响线：不应有太大的信号损失，这就在客观上要求音箱线具有极为优秀的导电性能，优秀的导电性能要求线材要具备极传送能力。

2、电线：屏蔽层的表面覆盖密度应符合标准或满足使用者要求；屏蔽层应用镀锡铜丝编织或缠绕；如屏蔽外应加挤护套，则屏蔽允许采用软圆铜丝编织或缠绕。

参考资料来源：百度百科-电源线

参考资料来源：百度百科-音箱线

汽车音响主机接线方法详解

1、主电源线（BAT）

标记：BAT

连接：通过中心保险盒直接接电瓶正极

作用：给主机提供工作电源

判断：一般为黄色（或者红色）粗线；带保险管（或者与机背上保险片的某一脚直通）；即使拔掉车钥匙，依旧显示为12V左右。

2、防盗线SAFE（部分车型单独，部分车型与BAT同一条线。多数车型没有）

标记：SAFE

连接：通过中心保险盒直接接电瓶正极

作用：给主机提供记忆电源。当主机被拔走后，重新接电机器会提示输入密码，起到防盗作用。现在多数已经不配了。原来是西方治安混乱时期有无业青年砸玻璃拆机头卖钱吸毒时的防备。

判断：一般为黄色（或者红色）线；有些带保险管；即使拔掉车钥匙，依旧显示12V左右。

3、启动线（ACC）

标记：ACC，或者SW，或者开关符号，或者钥匙符号。

连接：通过车钥匙开关，再连接到电瓶正极

作用：通知主机可以准备工作。钥匙拔掉后主机立即或者延时停止工作。防止车主忘记关机时把电跑光。

判断：一般为黄色（或者红色）线；有些带保险管；拔掉车钥匙电压为0V，拧开车钥匙显示12V左右。

4、地线GND

标记：GND，或者—

连接：直接接车体（一般车体又接电瓶负极，被称为负极接地系统，掀开发动机盖可以看到电瓶负极直接连到车架上。极少有正极接地系统的车车，或者音响主机。）。

作用：构成主机的供电回路，与BAT一进一出。

判断：一般为黑色粗线；与车体金属或者主机金属外壳完全相通。

上面4条线一接，主机一般就可以上电了。但要出声，还要接喇叭线。

5、喇叭线

喇叭线一般有四对+/-线，标明FR、FL、RR、RL，意思是FRONTRIGHT（前右）、FRONTLEFT（前左）、REARRIGHT（后右）、REARLEFT（后左）

车上喇叭线判断方法：一般成对出现，一条是纯色一条是杂色，往往不用红、黄、黑。比如绿/绿白条纹灰/灰黑条纹等。用一节5号电池瞬间接通这两条线，就会听到特定的喇叭发出劈啪声。

喇叭线接通后，调整主机的前后、左右声场平衡，会发现有无接错。

注意喇叭正负不可接反---如果一个喇叭相位反了低音效果会很差。因为反相会导致一个喇叭往外冲时另一个喇叭正好往里冲，低音效果会被互相抵消。有经验的人能根据喇叭大小听出来的，或者调整主机的前后左右平衡，依次只让一个、前排一对、左侧一对等喇叭响，如果发现某种情况下低音比别的情况好，则有可能有喇叭反相了。即使全部接的反相，纸盆运动没有互相抵消，理论上低音音质也会变差。因为信号颠峰纸盆往外冲与往内吸效果还是不同的。专业店面有检测相位仪的。

6、照明线ILLU（某些机型有）

标记：ILLU，或者小灯符号，或者小太阳符号。

连接：直接接仪表盘照明电源正

作用：打开仪表盘灯或者大灯，主机面板按键会全亮。便于夜间操空。

判断：关掉仪表盘照明，电压为0V，打开仪表盘照明或者大灯，显示12V左右。

7、天线控制线（ATN）

标记：ATN，或者小天线的符号。

连接：连接天线电机控制线

作用：升起收音机天线。

判断：已排除前面所有线以后、车上有升降天线；不接主机时，该线无电压也与其他线不通，才可以瞬间加电试一下天线是否升起。如主机已接通，则开启收音机该线显示12V左右，关闭主机该线显示0V。

最基本的接线就这些了。

其余的有电话、车速感应、电脑通讯、碟箱控制、音频输入、功放输出、低音输出，越复杂的车机，后面的接线插座越多。有些俺也得看着英文琢磨半天才敢试

8、功放控制线REM

标记：REM字母标记

作用：控制功放的开关作用

判断：一般开机带输出电压12V左右，关机不带电压。该线有REM字母标志。

音箱的尾部有两个插口，一个是圆头，一个是USB接头。将音箱的圆形插口插入到中间的绿色插口中。将音箱的USB接口插入电脑上面的任意USB接口上。插入之后，的音箱就可以正常使用了，详细步骤：

1、首先先将两个音箱摆放到合适的位置。

2、音箱的尾部有两个插口，一个是圆头，一个是USB接头。

3、带着这两个接口，来到电脑的后面看到三个圆形插口。

4、然后将音箱的圆形插口插入到中间的绿色插口中。

5、安装成功如图。

6、然后再将音箱的USB接口插入电脑上面的任意USB接口上。

7、插入之后，的音箱就可以正常使用了。

音响线和普通线到底有什么区别，说法不一。但制造工艺是是有区别的。实事求是的说，花大价钱购买音响线（信号线和音箱线），不如把内部的关键器件换成高品质的。发烧信号线，不论是怪兽还是什么其他的大牌，一两米的价钱动辄几百，多者几千，但这些线比一般的线材（技术参数合格、价钱不超过几十块的）到底有多大差别，这个问题众说纷纭，评价的人多数是纯主观评价，带有强烈的主观倾向，心理作用在这些评价中起了主要作用。作为声音的评价，虽然不能避免主观因素，但可以利用比较经过严格的双盲实验来确定，下面是一份国外烧友的信，他进行了盲测，发现参加实验的人（这些人都是有经验的音响爱好者）无法区分线材的差别，甚至做不出正确的好坏判断，非常不可思议的是，参加实验的人都听不出用衣服架子（货真价实的衣服架子）做的信号线和怪兽线的差别。这个结果基本上证明了花大价钱购买昂贵的信号线材是一种盲目的行为，投资是毫无意义的，完全是被他人和自己忽悠了。当然，资金充足的人，满足一下自己的心理需求是无可厚非的。

转一封国外发烧友的信：Dear audiophile;In response to When is good enough, enough, (refering to hi-fi loud speakers) I think you missed the point after reading my epistle ...but then again, maybe that’s what I get for assuming readers will “read between the lines“.A speaker is only good enough when it can duplicate the original sound it is duplicating with such a high level of accuracy that no measurement device, including the human ear/brain, can detect any difference between the original sound and the speaker’s duplication of the same sound. Of course this is impossible with todays technology. Because of the fact the original sound must, in some manner, be converted to electrons which race down wires at the speed of light, which are resisted and capacitated which will always cause a difference between the original and replicated sound. Therefore, I ask the question, why strive for perfect replication if it is not doable? Further, since it is not currently doable, why should anyone labor over the concern of how accurate or “good“ their speakers are, or in this case, when is good, good enough? What matters is if the speaker SATISFIES its owner with the clear understanding that the owner is not hearing anything remotely true to the original sound recorded on the replicating media.A speaker is not a music reproducer because it cannot accurately reproduce the original sound of the music it is attempting to replicate. All a speaker can do is take what is fed into it electronically and produce a “resemblence“ of the original sound. Therefore, a speaker should not be called a speaker, it should be called a noise, sound or “musical instrument“. For the record, my first stereo speakers (noise makers) were Bose 901’s (back in the 60’s when they were the rage). From there I went to ESS Heil airmotion transformer A-1’s, then the mighty corner Klipshhorns with center Belle Klipshorn, next came Theater Jensen A-5, then moving on to DQ-10-A’s, then to Electrovoice 10-B’s, then Martin Logan SL-3’s and now a custombuilt $50,000.00 speaker system designed and built by Dennis Dean, Ph.D., an acoustical/audio engineer who fortunetly happens to be my brother.Now let me tell you something about my home theater. My speakers (musical instruments) feature Scanspeak’s slit-cone midrange Revlator drivers and matched silk dome tweeters (their best and most expensive drivers). The upper bass woofers are Daton Titanic III 10-inch drivers and the sub woofers are Daton Titanic III 15-inch woofers. The fs is 19 Hz and in their enclosure go down to 16 Hz at 125 dbs measured at one-meter (they rock the house when they achieve room lock). These speakers are 4-way tower floor standers. The cabinets are 2-inch MDF, braced, properly dampened, and stuffed with a proprietary filler. The weight is in excess of 375 lbs each! The center channel speaker uses the same tweeter and midrange driver as the left right towers. The center channel bass is channeled to the left-right tower woofers via the pre-pro (small speaker setting). The center channel also have two Revelator slit cone mid range drivers and the speaker is laid sideways on its own dedicated stand which places it dead center to the bottom of the movie screen. Cross over and phasing are set to eliminate lobing. The rear surround drivers use linium ribbons and 5-inch hexacone drivers with passive 24 db/Oct cross overs which are housed in a a nonresonate aluminum enclosures. These quasi omnidirectional speakers are ideal for surround speakers. They are mounted 7 feet from the floor on the sides and rear of the theater seating area. They are set on the small speaker setting in the prepro, thus utilize the left and right front main speakers woofers for bass below 80 Hz. They, along with the center channel speaker are crossed over at THX’s recommended 80 Hz point. The sub woofer consist of a custom built 450 pound enclosure, tune ported per computer analysis which sports two 18-inch drivers. It works down to 12 cycles (- 3 db point which is the limit to our measurement equipment). Its efficiency is 95 db at 1 meter, 1 watt in put. The drivers are made by Focal (Jm Labs) in France. All speakers are padded to a 90 db output at one meter. All speakers are electronically crossed over and triampliefied with Anthem amplifiers @ 200 watts per speaker (each speaker has its own dedicated amplifier)! My home theater pre-pro is a RDC-7 Integra Research (latest model with all upgrades). My DVD-CD player is Sony’s flagship NS999ES DVD/CD/SACD player. Inter connects are Monster M-1000’s wires. Speaker cables are good old fashioned 14 gauge Belden, oxygen free copper wire for the tweeters and midrange drivers and 12 gauge for the woofers and subwoofers (more about that later). My video consist of an 84-inch Stewart Grayhawk electric retractable screen. The overhead-front projector is a Sony Hi-Def LCD Cineza (the only dront projector I have ever viewed that projects a picture which looks good when an end table lamp is turned on in the room). I use Monster’s line conditioner powered by a TripLite power converter transformer set up. All AC lines are dedicated 20 amp and grounded with a 3-foot copper stake in the ground. TV reception is DSS satellite. All Inter connects are 2 meters or less in length. Speaker wires are 18-ft. or less. My room is 12-feet high, 18.5 feet wide X 23.5 feet long and semi open to a hall, foyer and dining area (which make wonderful bass traps). This, mathmatically, causes a 34 Hz, 45 Hz and 72 Hz 5 db suckout, a mild 3 db suckout at 52 Hz and a huge 12db boost at 62 Hz and a 4 db boost at 80 Hz. This is corrected with an Audio control 1/6 octave bass equilizer (set with calibrated mic and meter), plus judicious phase adjustment to the sub woofers. The bass frequency measurement while in the main seating area of the room (14-feet from the center of the screen) is + 2db, - 1.5 db from 120 Hz to 18 Hz. The entire system from 20 Hz to 11K Hz. (the limit to my hearing) is + or - 2.5 db @ 4.5 meters from the center speaker, while seated as measured on an HP real time spectrum analyzer. Acoustical treatment consists of hung decorator rugs on the back walls, large back wall book case stuffed with books and nic-nacks, an acoustical fluffed (popcorn) ceiling, a 9 X 12-ft. area rug, and very soft, absorbant, dual pleat blinds which may be dropped down on the side walls exactly where the first sound wave launch hits the wall. Speakers are properly placed by comuter and sound meter analysis. One last thing regarding your comment on replication and judging the ability of componants to bring you nearest the original sound (my words, not yours). I’m so sorry, but I do not buy into 90% of the hype brought to us audiophiles by the commercial sector of our hobby and the home entertainment industry at large. My brother, an audio engineering whiz kid has proven to me what is real and what is not. Let me rehearse with you an example of how he does this.We gathered up a 5 of our audio buddies. We took my “old“ Martin Logan SL-3 (not a bad speaker for accurate noise making) and hooked them up with Monster 1000 speaker cables (decent cables according to the audio press). We also rigged up 14 gauge, oxygen free Belden stranded copper wire with a simple PVC jacket. Both were 2 meters long. They were connected to an ABX switch box allowing blind fold testing. Volume levels were set at 75 Db at 1000K Hz. A high quality recording of smooth, trio, easy listening jazz was played (Piano, drums, bass). None of us had heard this group or CD before, therefore eliminating biases. The music was played. Of the 5 blind folded, only 2 guessed correctly which was the monster cable. (I was not one of them). This was done 7 times in a row! Keeping us blind folded, my brother switched out the Belden wire (are you ready for this) with simple coat hanger wire! Unknown to me and our 12 audiophile buddies, prior to the ABX blind test, he took apart four coat hangers, reconnectd them and twisted them into a pair of speaker cables. Connections were soldered. He stashed them in a closet within the testing room so we were not privy to what he was up to. This made for a pair of 2 meter cables, the exact length of the other wires. The test was conducted. After 5 tests, none could determine which was the Monster 1000 cable or the coat hanger wire. Further, when music was played through the coat hanger wire, we were asked if what we heard sounded good to us. All agreed that what was heard sounded excellent, however, when A-B tests occured, it was impossible to determine which sounded best the majority of the time and which wire was in use. Needless to say, after the blind folds came off and we saw what my brother did, we learned he was right...most of what manufactures have to say about their products is pure hype. It seems the more they charge, the more hyped it is.So you see, my friend, that is why I have joined up with this site (audioholics) because their approach to good sound and education to acquire good sound and video is based on science, not hype, hypnotics, placebo effects or wishfulthinking. My best regards;Dr. Bob Dean

线材设计方向不同。1、普通铜线，就是电线，是设计的耐压、耐热、耐大电流、阻燃的。2、音响线设计是传输高频信号的。优质音响线采用单结无氧铜，就是减少信号的损失。3、所以同等直径的电线和音响线，音响线电气连接性可能更好。但是绝缘层的耐压就是绝缘性不如电线、还有就是电线过载发热的阻燃性比音响线好。4、还有就是成本问题，音响线比普通电线成本要高。