Pierre Cardin设计的裙装和灯

（图片来源：Suzy Menkes）

一把Pierre Cardin设计的椅子

（图片来源：Suzy Menkes）

Pierre Cardin外套，1981

（图片来源：Suzy Menkes）

Pierre Cardin服装，1968

（图片来源：Laziz Hamani）

Pierre Cardin裙装，1966

（图片来源：Suzy Menkes）

Pierre Cardin模特的太空时代造型，1968

（图片来源：Pierre Cardin档案）

Pierre Cardin服装，1968

（图片来源：Laziz Hamani）

Suzy Menkes和Pierre Cardin

（图片来源：Suzy Menkes）

“别在这儿待太久，去马路那边看看。这里是过去，那边是未来！”92岁的Pierre Cardin在他位于巴黎玛黑区的新博物馆开幕式上说道。

除了永远的未来主义时装大师Cardin，还有谁会建议我别去理会1968年那些时髦的太空时代乙烯树脂迷你裙？或是更早以前那些动感十足的中性风格弹力男装？

Pierre Cardin在他的新博物馆中

（图片来源：Pierre Cardin档案）

这位设计师鼓励我走出这间新开的“过去、现在、未来博物馆”（St-Merri大街5号，75004，巴黎），去特地开在马路对面的那家名为Evolution的Pierre Cardin门店看看；Cardin的追随者可以在那里买到当前的新款服饰。

自从抛开他在巴黎的Dior、Paquin及Schiaparelli时装屋学到的完美优雅剪裁后，Pierre Cardin就一直以自己的方式从事时装设计。

Pierre Cardin模特的太空时代造型，1968

（图片来源：Pierre Cardin档案）

我看着1952年那件与及肘长的黑色手套和钟形帽搭配穿着的红色格子外套，很难料想，15年后Cardin的迷你裙会与人类首次登月的场景不谋而合。这位设计师与André Courrèges共同捕捉到了1960年代的精神。

Pierre Cardin博物馆里的展品

（图片来源：Pierre Cardin档案）

这间博物馆带给我们足够多的视觉冲击，但内容就像简介上的超短迷你裙一样简略。服装分布在一栋大厦的四层楼里，但与这里最初的盛大场面相去甚远；Cardin告诉我，这里原是他的领带工厂。这些服装与配饰一起穿戴在人型模特身上，但很少有鞋搭配展示。

Pierre Cardin博物馆里的展品

（图片来源：Pierre Cardin档案）

服饰上有年代标签，但再无其他介绍其年代背景或设计过程的文字。甚至连面料细节都未曾列出，尽管Cardin对塑料材质和上乘真丝面料的对比运用十分有趣。

参观者或许还会惊讶地发现，这位设计师在其职业生涯中，曾打造出在今天的红毯上依然能够大放光芒的晚礼服。我尤其喜欢其中一件堪称经典力作的黑色露背蕾丝裙。

Pierre Cardin博物馆里的展品

（图片来源：Pierre Cardin档案）

我不会说Pierre Cardin的博物馆令人失望。每层楼都有精彩的作品，而他设计的现代家具——包括像发光的霍比特人一样的落地灯——本身就已足够迷人。

只是我对Cardin怀有那么多美好的记忆，也很希望能看到一些文字介绍和时装秀视频，或是聆听到记录下他那非凡视野的访谈。

Pierre Cardin博物馆里的展品

（图片来源：Pierre Cardin档案）

1988年，我首次造访中国。当我隔着无法逾越的语言障碍在陌生的文化中挣扎穿行时，Cardin像一只精灵般突然出现在我眼前，领我游览北京城。当时的中国民众都还穿着中山装去参加国家组织的大型活动，而Cardin正受邀在那里举办一场时装秀。而在此之前，他已是战后首位将自己的风格带到日本的设计师。

巴黎一辆面包车上的Pierre Cardin广告

（图片来源：Suzy Menkes）

在创立自己的时装屋64年后，Pierre对我讲述了他心目中自己取得的最大成就。

“我拥有一切，这些都是我的，”他自豪地说。他指的不仅是这些服装和配饰，门店和庞大的全球零售店体系，还包括他在时装界的非凡地位。早在“品牌”一词成为商业术语前，Cardin就创立了一个品牌，并继续打破各种常规以及可以在每一本时装管理手册里看到的商业发展计划。

我希望能在展览上看到他1970年代设计的未来主义汽车，他在巴黎从事的剧院设计的相关信息，以及他目前在法国南部和威尼斯（回归其意大利根源）的项目资讯。

位于巴黎玛黑区的Pierre Cardin门店Evolution

（图片来源：Suzy Menkes）

一直以来，Cardin都身体力行地支持年轻或有潜力的设计师。我希望他能邀请拿着智能手机的学生一同参观这所博物馆，录下由他亲口讲述的独特故事，再利用这些讯息润色他的服装介绍，并建立一份完善的档案。

我甚至愿意亲自来为他录音。因为你从Pierre Cardin口中听到的每一个字，都是在聆听一位传奇人物的伟大故事。

http://www.pierrecardin.com/art_spectacle_en.php

CREDITSuzy MenkesCAPTIONA Pierre Cardin dress and lamp

CREDITSuzyMenkes

CAPTIONA Pierre Cardin-designed chair

CREDITSuzy Menkes

CAPTIONPierre Cardin coat, 1981

CREDITSuzy Menkes

CAPTIONPierre Cardin designs, 1968

CREDITSuzy Menkes

CAPTIONPierre Cardin dresses, 1966

CREDITSuzy Menkes

CAPTIONPierre Cardin outfits, 1968

CREDIT: Laziz HamaniCAPTIONPierre Cardin outfit, 1968

CREDITSuzy Menkes

CAPTIONSuzy Menkes with Pierre Cardin

“Don’t stay here too long – go across the road. This is the past and that is the future!” said Pierre Cardin, 92, at the opening of his new museum in the Marais district of Paris.

Who but Cardin, the perpetual fashion futurist, would suggest that I should turn my back on go-go, space age, vinyl minidresses from 1968? Or menswear that was sporty, stretch and unisex before its time?

CREDITArchive Pierre Cardin

CAPTIONPierre Cardin in his new museum

The designer was encouraging me to walk across from his new Past, Present, Future Museum (5 Rue St-Merri 75004 Paris) to a Pierre Cardin shop named Evolution, strategically placed opposite, where devotees can buy current re-furbished looks.

Pierre Cardin is a designer who has been spinning in his own orbit since he stepped away from the perfectly tailored elegance he learned from working at Paris couturiers Dior, Paquin and Schiaparelli.

CREDIT: Archive Pierre Cardin

CAPTIONPierre Cardin models dressing for the space-age, 1968

I looked at a scarlet panelled coat from 1952, worn with black, elbow-length gloves and cloche hat, and wondered how it was conceivable that 15 years later Cardin’s miniskirts looked ready for the first moon landing. The designer, along with André Courrèges, caught the spirit of the 1960s.

CREDIT: Archive Pierre Cardin

CAPTION: A display in the Pierre Cardin Museum

The museum has plenty of visual stimulation, but it is as short as a micro-miniskirt on information. The clothes are on four floors of a mansion, far from its original grandeur, which Cardin told me was his former necktie factory. The clothes are put on mannequins with accessories, but few shoes.

CREDIT: Archive Pierre Cardin

CREDIT: A display in the Pierre Cardin Museum

There are date labels, but nothing else to put a garment in the context of its decade or the designer’s development. There are not even details of fabrics, although Cardin’s contrasting use of both plastics and the finest couture silks are intriguing.

Visitors may even be amazed that, throughout his career, the designer created glamorous evening clothes that could grace a red carpet today. I particularly liked a black lace dress framing a bared back, a classic masterpiece.

A display in the Pierre Cardin Museum

Picture credit: Archive Pierre Cardin

I would not describe this Pierre Cardin museum as a disappointment. All the floors have interesting pieces and his modern furniture alone – including floor lights like glowing hobbits – are fascinating.

It is just that I have so many Cardin memories and I would have liked to have seen some text, looked at films of shows, or heard interviews as a record of his extraordinary vision.

A display in the Pierre Cardin Museum

Picture credit: Archive Pierre Cardin

In 1988, I made my first trip to China. And as I struggled through an alien culture and an impenetrable language barrier, Cardin suddenly popped up like a genie, guiding me through a Beijing where the public still wore Mao suits to a massive, state-organised event where he had been invited to stage a fashion show. And this was after he had already been the first designer to bring his style to Japan after the war.

CREDITSuzy Menkes

CAPTIONPierre Cardin advert on a van in Paris

Sixty-four years after he founded his fashion house, Pierre told me what he considered his finest achievement.

“I own everything – it is all mine,” he said proudly, referring not just to the welter of clothes and accessories, the stores and a web of global licences, but to his extraordinary position in the fashion world. Cardin created a brand – before that word was used as a business definition – and went on to break every code and development plan you would find in a manual about smart fashion management.

I wish one of the futuristic cars he designed in the 1970s was on show, along with information about his theatre work in Paris and his current projects in the South of France and in Venice, returning to his Italian roots.

CREDITSuzy MenkesCAPTIONPierre Cardin’s store, Evolution, in Paris’s Marais district

Cardin has always done so much for young or would-be designers. I would love him to invite students with smartphones to walk with him around the museum, recording the exceptional stories from his own lips – and then use that information to embellish the details of the outfits and to create an archive.

I wouldn’t even mind doing those recordings myself. For with every word that Pierre Cardin says, you know that you are listening to a living legend.

http://www.pierrecardin.com/art_spectacle_en.php