原创 丨 上海有腔调 ![](https://imagepphcloud.thepaper.cn/pph/image/59/938/26.jpg) 咸菜是平民食物。![](https://imagepphcloud.thepaper.cn/pph/image/59/938/27.jpg) 小辰光常吃,现在吃的少。不是厌,一面滋味差了,再者不安心。今朝,腌咸菜多是远郊的小作坊,不比往时,老字号都是前店后作坊。 ![](https://imagepphcloud.thepaper.cn/pph/image/59/938/28.jpg) 小作坊,咸菜腌不得几天,都没腌透,只急着出货,咸菜还泛着青,亚硝酸盐浓度高的很。还有用黄纳粉(油漆家具时打底色用的)来增色,看着漂亮,洗洗是掉色的。再有用萝卜叶子冒充雪里蕻,吃进嘴一阵苦味,才呼上当。![](https://imagepphcloud.thepaper.cn/pph/image/59/938/29.jpg) 前两年,家附近小菜场,卖的咸菜吃口好,自家腌的,放心的很,现在不卖了。我没腌制的手艺,只靠姆妈,接济点自家腌的咸菜,解解馋。 现在也不高兴腌了,说不健康,偶尔喫喫还行。 ![](https://imagepphcloud.thepaper.cn/pph/image/59/938/31.jpg) 小辰光,咸菜是大缸大缸腌的。上海常见的咸菜,用的是雪里蕻,照“古法”腌,总出不了错。 ![](https://imagepphcloud.thepaper.cn/pph/image/59/938/33.jpg) 说“古法”,也就是靠脚踩,装缸、装甏,都有。![](https://imagepphcloud.thepaper.cn/pph/image/59/938/34.jpg) 鲜雪里蕻,晒干去老叶,缸底铺满一层,撒粗盐,再铺层菜,就该上脚了。小缸会用种粗圆木棍。![](https://imagepphcloud.thepaper.cn/pph/image/59/938/35.jpg) 踩咸菜这活,多是给小囡的。光脚上阵是常事,顶讲究的才会穿个胶皮套鞋。有打趣讲,有脚气的踩出来最好吃,有没有根据?哪能知道。![](https://imagepphcloud.thepaper.cn/pph/image/59/938/36.jpg) 倒是踩菜皮,好白相,赤足踩着,凉丝丝,是不多得的娱乐。菜皮踩的实,挤出空气,盐粒充分接触青菜,腌制的快,也不容易腌出缸烂菜。 ![](https://imagepphcloud.thepaper.cn/pph/image/59/938/37.jpg) 踩完,顶上要置块大石头,塑料布封好,阴凉的地方放上个把月。到涨起青黄汁水,能闻着生涩酸味,还冒着细小气泡,咸菜就成了! ![](https://imagepphcloud.thepaper.cn/pph/image/59/938/39.jpg) 切得细碎炒笋,一顿能吃不少!笋用春笋、冬笋、鞭笋?没讲究,都是顶好的滋味。![](https://imagepphcloud.thepaper.cn/pph/image/59/938/40.jpg)
![](https://imagepphcloud.thepaper.cn/pph/image/59/938/41.jpg) 烧豆腐,烧河蚌,炒毛豆,炒肉丝,没有咸菜不搭的。![](https://imagepphcloud.thepaper.cn/pph/image/59/938/42.jpg) 就肉丝,最妙的吃法,是咸菜肉丝汤,雪里蕻咸鲜,衬得肉香浓郁。凡有咸菜肉丝汤,第二天是必吃泡饭的,有汤一碗,哪还要小菜。雪里蕻还有一种不深度腌制的,称青咸菜或新咸菜。 ![](https://imagepphcloud.thepaper.cn/pph/image/59/938/43.jpg) 咸菜炒目鱼或烧大汤黄鱼,都是上台面的菜肴!![](https://imagepphcloud.thepaper.cn/pph/image/59/938/44.jpg)
![](https://imagepphcloud.thepaper.cn/pph/image/59/938/45.jpg) 四五月的大黄鱼,肥美,菜场里卖的多,烧次咸菜大汤黄鱼,鲜!现在这样好的黄鱼,少了,不好买。![](https://imagepphcloud.thepaper.cn/pph/image/59/938/46.jpg) 缸底的咸菜,腌得过头,加辣椒炒炒,去陈宿臭,也开胃。![](https://imagepphcloud.thepaper.cn/pph/image/59/938/47.jpg) 家里还腌咸白菜,这菜价钿低,买上几十斤,一个冬天,咸白菜几乎是天天吃的,也没吃腻。白嘴吃,菜心嫩,微微酸。 ![](https://imagepphcloud.thepaper.cn/pph/image/59/938/48.jpg) 下饭,挑一筷猪油,就咸白菜,是我最爱的!弥陀芥菜,腌过切薄片,凉拌,加糖,加香油,咸香甜脆,是极好的清粥小菜。我好些辣口,加丁点辣椒过油炒,也是好滋味。 ![](https://imagepphcloud.thepaper.cn/pph/image/59/938/49.jpg) 弥陀芥菜,听有人叫“奶奶头菜”,怪有意思。![](https://imagepphcloud.thepaper.cn/pph/image/59/938/50.jpg) 咸菜卤也是好物事,咸菜卤㸆花生,是吃不够的。今朝外头卖的,用咸菜卤的少,咸水花生只咸不鲜,没甚吃头。![](https://imagepphcloud.thepaper.cn/pph/image/59/938/51.jpg) 不懂哪里还有咸卤水煮的咸水花生。![](https://imagepphcloud.thepaper.cn/pph/image/59/938/52.jpg) 就一碟咸水花生,吃老酒。舒坦。 悠哉哉。 ![](https://imagepphcloud.thepaper.cn/pph/image/59/938/53.jpg) 腌过哪些咸菜?![](https://imagepphcloud.thepaper.cn/pph/image/59/938/57.jpg)
![](https://imagepphcloud.thepaper.cn/pph/image/59/938/58.jpg)
![](https://imagepphcloud.thepaper.cn/pph/image/59/938/59.jpg)
![](https://imagepphcloud.thepaper.cn/pph/image/59/938/60.jpg)
![](https://imagepphcloud.thepaper.cn/pph/image/59/938/61.jpg)
![](https://imagepphcloud.thepaper.cn/pph/image/59/938/62.jpg)
原标题:《上海的咸菜你喜欢怎么吃?》
|