Slippurinn, which means "boat slip" in Icelandic, draws inspiration from its location on Heimaey's harbour, as well as the former shipyard machine workshop in which it's housed. Many original parts of the workshop were restored, and reclaimed ship parts and tools are tucked into the bright, modern and minimalist decor, resulting in a space deeply connected to its roots.

Slipturinn在冰岛语中的意思是“滑船”，它的灵感来源于它位于海梅港的位置，以及它所在的前造船厂机器车间。车间的许多原始部分都得到了修复，回收的船舶零件和工具被塞进了明亮、现代和极简主义的装饰中，形成了一个与其根源紧密相连的空间。

Auðunsson has roots here, too. He was born on Heimaey – the oldest, largest and only inhabited of the Westman Islands archipelago located off Iceland's southern coast – but moved to Reykjavík when he was six. Despite being just 6km long, Heimaey is home to the largest Atlantic puffin breeding colony in the world, the windiest point in all of Europe and the world's first open water beluga whale sanctuary. It was evacuated in 1973 when the Eldfell volcano erupted, and though most of the island's residents returned to rebuild, the agriculture that existed previously was destroyed, and hasn't flourished since. But despite the loss and devastation, magic still flourishes in this tiny paradise.

Auðunsson也在这里扎根。他出生在海梅岛——一座位于冰岛南部海岸的韦斯曼群岛群岛中最古老、最大、唯一有人居住的岛屿——但在他六岁时搬到了雷克雅未克。尽管海梅岛只有6公里长，但它还是世界上最大的大西洋海鹦繁殖地、欧洲最大风的地方。同时也是世界上第一个开放水域白鲸保护区的所在地。1973年埃尔德费尔火山爆发时，岛上居民撤离，尽管岛上大部分居民后来返回重建，但此前存在的农业遭到破坏，从此不再繁荣。尽管遭受了损失和破坏，魔法仍然在这个小小的天堂里蓬勃发展。

Rhubarb cake with spent beer grains and pineapple weed ice cream

大黄蛋糕配啤酒糟和菠萝草冰淇淋

Auðunsson, who has a gift for seeing the magic in the natural world, had long been questioning why the abundant resources he grew up with weren't being utilised. He got a job at his uncle's now-shuttered Reykjavík restaurant, Turninn, as a banquet cook and, later, a pastry chef, not long before the 2008 financial crash profoundly impacted the country's economy. His family was struggling to find work in Reykjavík, so they moved back to Heimaey. They knew he wanted to do something meaningful after he finished culinary school in 2011, so when his mother brought up the idea of creating a restaurant on their home island, the answer was simple.

Auðunsson有在自然界看到魔法的天赋，他长期以来一直在质疑自己成长过程中拥有的丰富资源为什么没有被利用。在2008年金融危机深刻影响该国经济前不久，他在叔叔现已关闭的雷克雅未克餐厅Turnin找到了一份工作，担任宴会厨师，后来又担任糕点厨师。他的家人正努力在雷克雅未克找到工作，于是他们搬回了海梅岛。2011年，他从烹饪学校毕业后，他们知道他想做一些有意义的事情，所以当他的母亲提出在他们的家乡岛上开一家餐厅的想法时，答案很简单。It was a dream to open a restaurant that would celebrate local cuisine," he recalls. "But we didn't have carpenters, and had no money. We were working every morning until 11 at night for seven months to rehab the space, which hadn't been used in over 40 years.“开一家餐厅庆祝当地美食是一个梦想，”他回忆道。“但是我们没有木匠，也没有钱。我们每天从早上工作到晚上11点，花了七个月的时间来修复这个40多年没有使用过的空间。”

Slippurinn opened in 2012, and was the chef's first restaurant – though he's now on his third (he was chef and co-owner of Matur og Drykkur in Reykjavik's harbour district, and currently co-owns cocktail bar Skal! in Reykjavík's Hlemmur Food Hall). He has taken advantage of the eight months each year Slippurinn isn't open to learn new skills in restaurants across the world, and has done pop-ups in London, Hong Kong, Greenland, Switzerland and Italy. Through it all, his family has been by his side.

Slippurinn于2012年开业，是主厨的第一家餐厅——尽管他现在主要第三家工作（他是雷克雅未克海港区Matur og Drykkur的主厨和共同所有者，目前在雷克雅未克的Hlemmur Food Hall共同拥有Skal！鸡尾酒酒吧）。他每年利用了八个月的时间， Slippurinn不开放学习新技能在世界各地的餐厅，并已在伦敦，香港，格陵兰岛，瑞士和意大利做弹出窗口。经历这一切时，他的家人一直在他身边。

Auðunsson's mother, Katrín Gísladóttir, who started out working front of house at Slippurinn and now handles bookkeeping and floral design, admits there were occasional differences here and there.

Auðunsson的母亲Katrín Gísladóttir最初在Slippurinn的接待部门工作，现在负责记帐和花卉设计，她承认这里和那里偶尔会有差异。

Heimaey is the oldest, largest and only inhabited island of the Westman Islands archipelago

海梅岛是韦斯曼群岛中最古老、最大、唯一有人居住的岛屿。Every family has them," she admits. "In some ways [the experience] brought us closer, and we have learned more about each other.“每个家庭都有，”她承认。“在某种程度上（这段经历）让我们走得更近了，我们对彼此有了更多的了解。”

One thing Auðunsson was surprised to learn, however, involved his island's greatest industry: fishing. As it turned out, getting fresh fish from the boats into his restaurant wouldn't be as seamless as he initially expected.

然而，Auðunsson惊讶地发现一件事，这涉及到他岛上最大的产业：捕渔业。事实证明，将新鲜鱼从船上运到他的餐厅并不像他最初预期的那样天衣无缝。In Iceland, restaurant owners have to buy fish from an online auction, or order directly from the larger companies," he shares, "so you can't just go up to your local fishermen and get something straight from their boats – even if that makes perfect sense since they're right there.“在冰岛，餐馆老板必须通过在线买鱼，或者直接从大公司订购，”他分享道，“所以你不能直接到当地渔民那里，直接从他们的船上拿到东西——即使这很合理，因为他们就在那里。”

Thankfully, after a promise from his father, Auðunn Stefnisson – Slippurinn's handyman and a fisherman himself – that their fish would go to feed locals, not only tourists, the fishermen changed their practices to contribute to their town's newest restaurant. In the 2021 season alone, Slippurinn served up 19 kinds of local fish and six shellfish varieties, totalling 3.8 tons.

谢天谢地，在他的父亲Auðunn Stefnisson——Slippurinn的杂工，他本人是渔夫——承诺他们的鱼将卖给当地人，而不仅仅是游客之后，渔民们改变了他们的做法，为他们镇上最新的餐厅捐款。仅在2021季，Slippurinn就饲养了19种当地鱼类和六种贝类，共计3.8吨。

All that seafood serves as a rich palette for the many seaweed varieties Auðunsson forages, such as the delicate, hair-like strands of sea truffle, which he dries, ferments and purees, then serves alongside sweet langoustine in a rich beurre blanc with an apple, kohlrabi and wild sorrel salad.

所有这些海鲜都是Auðunsson用许多海草品种的草料精心调制的，比如他烘干、发酵和煮成泥状的纤细、毛发状的海松露，然后与甜朗古斯汀一起食用，配以丰富的白葡萄酒、苹果、大头菜和野生酸菜沙拉。

Chef Gísli Matthías Auðunsson serves local Icelandic fish at his restaurant

厨师Gísli Matthías Auðunsson的餐厅供应冰岛当地的鱼

The kelp he pulls off giant rocks jutting from the Atlantic are longer than a firehose, and as thick and wide as Thor's belt. In his kitchen, it becomes part of an elegant chicken stock that serves as a bath for a cod head the size of a deflated basketball. Once cooked, the head is doused in Birkir (birch liqueur) and bruleed, creating a sticky-crunchy-sweet umami bomb that's as addictive as it is Instagram-worthy.

他从大西洋上突出的巨石上提取的海带比消防水龙带还长，又厚又宽，就像托尔的腰带一样。在他的厨房里，它变成了一种优雅的鸡汤的一部分，可以用来给一个瘪了的篮球大小的鳕鱼头洗澡。煮熟后，将头部浸泡在Birkir（桦树利口酒）和bruleed中，制作出一种粘稠、松脆、甜的鲜味炸弹，就像网红打卡的地方一样让人上瘾。

Though it may seem novel, cod head plays a pivotal role when it comes to preserving Iceland's culinary past. Iceland has been a long-time exporter of dried cod, as early as the 13th Century, to many places in Europe – particularly Portugal, Spain and Italy. Referred to as stockfish because the head was not traditionally part of the export, cod heads remained in Iceland where locals used to eat it boiled with a bit of salt. Today, Icelandic cod is exported all over the world, and both stockfish and dried cod heads are exported to Italy as well as Nigeria – the largest market for dried fish in the world – but Auðunsson feels strongly that Icelanders should still be eating those cod heads.

虽然看起来很新奇，但鳕鱼头在保存冰岛烹饪历史方面起着关键作用。早在13世纪，冰岛就一直是欧洲许多地方的干鳕鱼出口国，特别是葡萄牙、西班牙和意大利。由于鳕鱼头在传统上不是出口的一部分，所以被称为鳕鱼头。在冰岛，鳕鱼头仍然存在，当地人过去常吃用盐煮过的鳕鱼。如今，冰岛鳕鱼出口到世界各地，鳕鱼和干鳕鱼头都出口到意大利和尼日利亚——世界上最大的干鳕鱼市场——但Auðunsson强烈认为，冰岛人仍应该食用这些鳕鱼头。There are a lot of Icelanders who don't know about Icelandic food anymore," he says, "and it's important that we don't forget how things were done. We need to preserve our history.“有很多冰岛人不再了解冰岛食物了，”他说，“重要的是我们不要忘记事情是如何发生的。我们需要保护我们的历史。”

By putting his own stamp on old traditions, he's moving Icelandic cuisine into new gastronomic territory. He even dips cod throat in beer batter, deep fries it and serves it with herbed aioli.

通过在古老传统上打上自己的印记，他将冰岛美食带入了新的美食领域。他甚至把鳕鱼喉咙蘸在啤酒面糊里，深煎，然后和香草艾奥利一起上桌。

Slippurinn incorporates Birkir (birch liqueur) onto its dishes and drinks (Credit: Karl Petersson)

Slippurinn将Birkir（桦树利口酒）加入其菜肴和饮料中

Auðunsson also turns cod into perfectly salty discs topped with browned butter and pickled seaweed in an Icelandic take on sour cream and onion crisps, and dresses dried kelp crisps – so light and delicate, they crunch-melt on your tongue – with homemade sour cream and lumpfish roe as pink as a rose petal.

Auðunsson还把鳕鱼变成了非常咸的鳕鱼片，上面涂着棕色的黄油和腌制的海草，放在冰岛的酸奶油和洋葱薯片上，用自制的酸奶油和粉红如玫瑰花瓣的块状鱼子来装饰干海带薯片——如此轻巧，它们在你的舌头上嘎吱作响融化。

His commitment to using local resources has always been strong, but it was his experiences in restaurant kitchens across the world that opened his eyes to just how rich some of his native resources really were.

他一直致力于利用当地资源，但正是他在世界各地餐厅厨房的经历让他认识到自己的一些本土资源到底有多丰富。When I was staging in New York, they were importing oyster leaf from Alaska, and I was sure I had seen these leaves before," he says. "I realised that these leaves they were paying a dollar per piece for grew on the beaches back home!“当我在纽约演出时，他们从阿拉斯加进口牡蛎叶，我确信我以前见过这些叶，”他说。“我意识到，他们每片花一美元买的这些叶子生长在家乡的海滩上！”

At Slippurinn, you can find oyster leaf on top of radishes stuffed with homemade mayonnaise. There may also be grilled broccoli slathered in garlic mayonnaise and crusted in panko and dried fish flakes, which is like crunchy, battered fish without most of the fish or grease; angelica-cured halibut so thin and translucent that the tiny pops of pink arctic thyme dusted on top turn it into art; pineapple weed ice cream with the fragrance and flavour of its namesake fruit – despite actually being chamomile – topped with a tart-sweet wild rhubarb compote; and skyr, an Icelandic cheese similar to yogurt, with wild sorrel granita and toasted oats.

在Slippurinn，你可以在塞满自制蛋黄酱的萝卜上找到牡蛎叶。还有烤花椰菜，涂上蒜味蛋黄酱，裹上薄饼和干鱼片，就像松脆的、面糊的鱼，没有大部分的鱼和油脂；angelica腌制的比目鱼非常薄且半透明，以至于在顶部撒上粉红色的北极百里香使其成为艺术品；菠萝野草冰激凌有着与之同名的水果的香味和味道——尽管实际上是洋甘菊——顶部是酸甜的野生大黄混合物；还有skyr，一种类似酸奶的冰岛奶酪，搭配野生酸模和烤燕麦。

Sheep roam Iceland's island of Heimaey羊在冰岛的海美岛上游荡

Auðunsson's sister, Indíana Auðunsdóttir, designed Slippurinn, and was largely responsible for the evolution of the cocktail programme, which is informed by what grows on Heimaey. What started as a popular wild rhubarb mojito with rhubarb from neighbours' yards led to a mojito made of white rum, raw sugar, sorrel syrup, lime, lemon bitters and sparkling water; a cocktail made of arctic thyme simple syrup, pear cider, lemon and Reyka vodka; and an Icelandic riff on a piña colada, with angelica liqueur, cream and pineapple weed vodka.

Auðunsson的妹妹Indíana Auðunsdóttir设计了Slippurinn，并在很大程度上对鸡尾酒项目的发展负责，该项目由海梅岛上生长的植物决定。一开始流行的野生大黄莫吉托是用邻居家院子里的大黄制成的，后来出现了一种由白朗姆酒、生糖、酸橙、柠檬苦味剂和起泡水制成的莫吉托；由北极百里香简单糖浆、梨汁、柠檬和雷克卡伏特加制成的鸡尾酒；冰激凌配冰激凌、当归利口酒、奶油和菠萝草伏特加。

There are also honeyed dandelion and licorice-y chervil syrups, homemade kombuchas, teas and tinctures.

还有蜜糖蒲公英和甘草樱桃糖浆、自制康普茶、茶和酊剂。

In Slippurinn's illustrated cocktail guide, which is placed on every table, pineapple weed (called Hlaðkolla in Icelandic) is described as "the most exotic flavour of any herb in Iceland, which tastes quite like sweet pineapple and grows in the lava fields.在Slipturinn的鸡尾酒指南中，菠萝草（在冰岛语中被称为Hlaðkolla）被描述为“冰岛所有草本植物中最具异国情调的一种，尝起来很像甜菠萝，生长在熔岩地里。”返回搜狐，查看更多